If You Visit One Country in Latin America
If you visit just one single country in Latin America in your lifetime, it should be Peru.
There. I said it.
I hear you, loud and clear. “What about Patagonia?” “Colombian coffee!” “Lounging on the Yucatan beaches?” “Mayan ruins in Guatemala?” “Salsa, cigars and rum in Cuba!” “Scuba diving in the Caribbean?” “Argentinian steak?” “Island-hopping off the coast of Panama?” “The wildlife of Costa Rica!” “Whatever it is you do in French Guiana.” “The jungles of Brazil.” “The salt flats of Bolivia?” “And Rio de friggin’ Jeneiro!?!?”
Quite loud and very clear. And all of you, my dear readers, have a point. All four of you, five if I count my Mum. Hi, Mum!
Anyway, the point is you have a point. Latin America is a veritable smörgåsbord of adventure and experience for the discriminating traveler, with each country bringing its own style and flavour to the table. However, having spent a total of 19 months living in and bumming around 14 of its countries (if you count English-and-Kriol-speaking Belize), I maintain that if you visit only one country in the region, Peru is the one that provides the most complete Latin American experience. While she may not be the best at everything, she has it all — or at least ticks the most boxes.
Indigenous culture, ancient ruins, delicious food, striking landscapes, rich wildlife, volcanoes, beaches and surfing, the Amazon, perfectly turquoise mountain lakes. By golly, she has floating islands, a naturally occurring Pride flag mountain, pornographic pottery, and massive geoglyphs carved (allegedly) by aliens! How can you compete with that?
You cannot.
Mind you, I am not saying the rest of the region isn’t worth your time. It absolutely is. I am not even saying Peru is my favourite country in the region; it is actually a close second to Argentina.
But when it comes to experiencing Latin America and what makes it unique, Argentina’s strong European heritage becomes a handicap; with a relatively modest indigenous influence it often it feels more like Europe than Latin America. Even much of the magnificent landscapes and natural wonders are more akin to the Alps and the Nordics than what you envisage when you think about the region.
But I digress.
Peru. What makes her the country you should go to if you only visit one country in Latin America.
Indigenous Heritage and History
With 60.2% of the population self-identifying as mestizo (of mixed European/indigenous ancestry) and 25.7% as indigenous Amerindians, according to the Instituto Nacional de Estadística e Informática (see page 214), a total of 85.9% of Peruvians have indigenous ancestry. Accordingly, Peru has an abundance of indigenous culture and history and is strewn with archeological sites. Wherever you find yourself, indigenous roots permeate all facets of life in Peru, be it art, cuisine, language, or dress — even the pharmacies are called InkaFarma.
While indigenous presence and influence is strong across much of Latin America, with Bolivia, Ecuador, and Guatemala especially coming to mind, Peru stands out on the basis of a handful of hard-to-beat attractions.
Starting with the crown jewel, I am not going to play the pompous hipster contrarian and claim that “Machu Picchu is not all it’s cracked up to be”. Machu Picchu is everything it’s cracked up to be and more. Anyone who tells you different is either mad or blind. Or a pompous hipster contrarian.
The 15th century Inca citadel is believed to have been a religious and political centre in the Inca Empire. Although the site was never found by the Spanish invaders, the city is believed to have been abandoned around the time of the end of Incan resistance to the Spanish conquistadores a century after it was built. It was finally “re-discovered” in 1911 by US historian Hiram Bingham.
And it’s bloody marvelous.
At 2430 metres, Machu Picchu sits perched on a narrow ridge overlooking the Urubamba Valley with Huayna Picchu mountain looming above it and the Andes stretching out into the distance. It truly is a breathtaking sight to behold and exploring the ruins and taking in the views will keep you busy for hours and hours. While impressive on their own, the ruins are elevated by their setting, making them the most impressive ancient ruins I visited in Latin America — only Tikal, with its great pyramids in the lush Guatemalan jungle, really comes close. Also worthy of mention in Colombia’s Ciudad Perdida, the Lost City, but Machu Picchu is simply in a league of its own.
For more ancient ruins in Peru, there is Chavín de Huántar in the Conchucos Valley, a day trip from Huaraz, the stone fortress Kuélap, not far south of Chachapoyas, and the pyramids of Cahuachi, in the desert near the city of Nazca.
El Valle Sagrado, the Sacred Valley, wedged between Cuzco and Machu Picchu, offers more ruins, agricultural terraces, traditional villages, and markets where indigenous locals proffer their wares and barter passionately with their customers.
An interesting piece of Inca history is the story of Juanita, the so-called “Ice-Maiden”, in the Museo Santuarios Andinos in Arequipa. It is a theatrical, macabre presentation revolving around the mummified remains of an Inca girl, Juanita, sacrificed to the gods and preserved in ice through the ages (hence the nickname). Note how the narration subtly skirts the fact that Juanita was essentially a child murdered in the name of religion. Fun stuff.
On Lake Titicaca, on Peru’s border with Bolivia, the Islas Uros are a group of floating artificial Islands, entirely woven from totora reeds which are abundant in the lake’s shallows. The Uros people resorted to this mode of living to escape aggression by the Incas, Collas, and other land-dwelling peoples. In addition to the islands themselves, the Uros’ boats and houses are made of the reeds and all require constant maintenance — the reeds are replenished from the top as the islands decay from below.
I stayed in a traditional reed hut on Uros Khantati for a few days, with the wonderful Cristina Suaña and her husband Victor. I have nothing but praise for them and their island.
Victor and I toured the islands by boat and went fishing, with him telling about the natural life on the lake, the birds and fish, and man’s relationship to it. Cristina seemed to run the show back “ashore” and one afternoon told me the story of how the dream of opening the island to visitors became a reality. I did the requisite dress-up, putting on the traditional Uros costume but I’m keeping the pics in my private collection. It was a splendid visit and provided a fascinating glimpse of the Uros culture and the quiet life on the islands.
The Beautiful Andes
Ah, the Andes. Such marvellous mountain vistas, such incredible natural wonders, such scenic peaks and valleys, such adorable llamas. Such and such and such and such.
Obviously, the Andes are not exclusive to Peru but she has her fair share. Indeed, exploring the Andes was the main focus of my Peruvian episode. And while Patagonia in Argentina and Chile is at least equally impressive, it is, as mentioned, reminiscent of the Alps or the Nordics, not giving the Latin American flavour the Andean regions closer to the equator do. Admittedly, you might say the same about Peru when you reach certain altitudes but below, say, 4000 metres, the views, landscapes and vegetation are decidedly more Andean than Alpine.
There is of course the four day Inca Trail, the ancient road laid by the Incas, taking you through green valleys, steep gorges, lush cloud forest strewn with ancient ruins, and finally entering Machu Picchu through the Inti Punku, the Sun Gate, at sunrise. It is an awe-inspiring sight.
Or so I’m told.
I did not do the Inca Trail but went for the five-day, reportedly more arduous Salkantay Trek. In part, this was because I was told it was more scenic and that the crowds were much thinner. Call me a pompous hipster contrarian. Mostly, I was too late in booking to secure my spot in an Inca Trail excursion; to preserve the trail, only 500 people are allowed to pass daily. Permits are in high demand and must be reserved well in advance.
Although lacking the archeological wonders of the Inca Trail, the Salkantay Trek takes you through more varied landscapes and climates, from jungles to alpine tundra, and there is no queuing to mount a hill or cross a ridge, something I am told tends to happen on the Inca Trail. Setting all comparison aside, the Salkantay Trek was wonderful and its landscape views were indeed out of this world.
There are several other trekking options to Machu Picchu, with the Lares Valley Trek often being mentioned in the same breath as Salkantay. Indeed, after I did my research it came down to Lares or Salkantay and by now I don’t remember what decided me. Then there is the Two-Day Inca Trail, covering the highlights of its big brother, and the Inca Jungle Trail, a multi-sport adventure (mountain bikes, rafting, etc.) going from Cuzco to Machu Picchu via Santa Teresa.
Whatever you choose, I really don’t think you can go wrong. These are the Andes, after all.
Not far from Cuzco is the mind-bending Vinicunca mountain, a naturally occurring… Pride flag? Yeah, let’s go with that. A naturally occurring, mind-bending Pride flag. Or perhaps it is the Cuzco flag. Flags aside, the name Vinicunca is from the Quechua language and means “seven colour mountain”. The mountain is also aptly known as Cerro Colorado, coloured mountain, and Rainbow Mountain. The colouration occurs due to the mineralogical composition of the rock.
It’s a day trip from the Inca capital and a not-too-strenuous five kilometre hike but at 5200 metres, feeling the altitude is all but guaranteed so take your diamox and chew your coca leaves. The coca candy may also help. If all else fails, for a fee you can ride a donkey.
Farther north and a bit to the west, some 1500 kilometres from Cuzco or an overnight bus from Lima there is the hiking hub of Huaraz (the H is silent). From there you can venture into the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra, the White and Black Ranges.
The Santa Cruz Trek in the Cordillera Blanca offers some of the most striking landscapes I have ever come across, Andean or otherwise. It winds through the valley of Quebrada Huaripampa, across the Punta Union at 4750 metres, with the magnificent Nevado Taulliraju Mountain looming high above, and then through the gorgeous Quebrada Santa Cruz Valley, from which the trek takes its name. It can be done in three days but four days are recommended to fully take in and enjoy the trek. The majestic peaks of the Cordillera, wondrous sparkling turquoise lakes, wildflowers and vegetation, it’s all there; for me, this was the quintessential Andean hike.
Several other multi-day treks set out from Huaraz, as well as plenty of one-day hikes. The latter include the perfect-for-acclimitisation Laguna Huilcacocha (3700 metres) in the Cordillera Negra, and the wonderful Laguna 69, which takes its name from the vividly turquoise lake at the trail’s end and gives great views of several of the nearby Coridillera Blanca peaks.
The final mention in this ode to the Andes goes to the impressive Cañon de Colca, one of the deepest canyons in the world — twice as deep as the famous Grand Canyon. Great views can be had from the various miradores along the canyon’s edge (keep an eye out for condors floating on the updraft) and hiking in the canyon gives an idea of its vastness and a closer look at its barren and desolate beauty. Keep in mind that if you venture down into the canyon, you’ll have to climb back out — again there are donkeys-for-a-fee for the down and defeated.
Food and Drink
Full disclosure: For me, Argentinian parilla, with its steaks, sausages, melted cheese and eye-watering chimichurri, tops the bill when it comes to food in the region but Peruvian cuisine, with its robust flavours and eclectic international influence, gave las vacas de pampas a run for their money. In Peru I had criminally tender alpaca steak, Amazonian fish, succulent anticuchos (skewered meat, popularly beef-heart), lomo saltado (stir-fried beef), Andean stuffed potato skins, Peruvian-Chinese food known as chifa, and some of the tastiest ceviches I have ever enjoyed. All varieties of potatoes originate in Peru, with 3000 varieties are found in the Andes, so do not miss out on the myriad potato dishes on offer.
Lima in particular has an abundance of exciting restaurants. I’ll be the first to admit that Lima is not the most exciting, vibrant, or even interesting city in the region but the food will not disappoint. A particular favourite was Panchita (anticuchos) but ámaZ (Amazonian) and Isolina (home-style criollo food) more than merit a mention.
Outside the capital, Uchu Peruvian Steakhouse in Cuzco was an absolute highlight, serving mouthwatering sausages with sundry sauces and trimmings, washed down with a Cusqeña Roja (more on that in a bit). Of course, I had to try cuy frito, fried guinea pig, a traditional delicacy. It came in a spicy sauce with potatoes, the poor cuy cut lengthwise down the middle, complete with teeth in its head. While I feel no great urge to add guinea pig to my standard diet, I do recommend trying it just for the fun of it. And I admit; I did not eat the head, which some say is the best part.
Of all the cervezas nacionales, staple national beers, in Latin America, Cusqeña is probably my favourite. When I crossed into Bolivia, the land of Paceña and Huari, the withdrawals were brutal.
Across Peru, Cusqeña was generally available in two varieties, Cusqeña Dorada (pale lager) and Cusqeña Negra (black lager). A little rarer was Cusqeña Roja (amber lager) but I do not remember trying or even seeing Cusqeña de Trigo (wheat beer). While Negra was a bit sweet for my taste, I quite enjoyed Dorada and Roja, with Dorada being my preference. It is nothing fancy, just a solid lager that always hits the spot. All varieties are worth trying and I assume the same goes for de Trigo.
To my shame I did not really check out Peruvian craft beer. I do have my hedonistic streak but I was more focused on exploring the Andes — this time around at least. Still, I did sample some of Nuevo Mundo Cervecería’s wares and found them excellent — my memory is a bit fuzzy but I seem to remember Panam Belgian Pale Ale leading the pack. In the last decade or so, there has been a thriving craft beer scene in Peru, with Nuevo Mundo, Sierra Andina, and Barbarian receiving high praise.
Last but not least is pisco, the brandy claimed by both Peru and Chile as their national drink. Its origin is a controversy between the neighbour states and remains hotly contested, although there is some evidence in Peru’s favour. While I was not impressed with pisco neat, I thoroughly enjoyed the pisco sours and cocktails I sampled. Pisco 101, the bar of Museo del Pisco in Lima, unsurprisingly, serves a variety of pisco cocktails and is worth a visit. Enjoy irresponsibly at your peril.
Colonial Splendour
When it comes to colonial cities, Peru may not have an absolute knock-out of, say, Colombia’s Cartagena or Guatemala’s Antigua but it has the impressive TKO-inducing left-right-left that is Arequipa, Cuzco and Trujillo. While I did not visit Trujillo, I found Arequipa to be more charming out of the other two — both are frequently mentioned as Peru’s principal colonial city with Cuzco seemingly getting most of the love.
Peru’s second and third largest cities, Arequipa and Cuzco are both sprinkled with stately churches, baroque buildings, and lovely colonial façades. Given Cuzco’s proximity to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, it is disadvantaged by the flourishing tourist trade, whereas Arequipa has a quieter, more dignified vibe. I found taking in the cityscape and history in the quieter setting of Arequipa to be more enjoyable. It’s a perfect place to unwind and get one’s bearings after strenuous adventures in the Andes. Regardless, Cuzco provides a satisfying dose of the colonial, enriched by the juxtaposition with the city’s ample indigenous influence.
Arequipa rests under three dramatic volcanoes, Chachani, El Misti, and Pichu Pichu, providing a grand natural backdrop for this charming city. It frequently experiences earthquakes but fortunately its colonial architecture has mostly withstood these, with much of the buildings being built of sturdy volcanic rock.
A treasure trove of colonial architecture and history is the 20.000 square metre Santa Catalina de Siena Monastery. The complex features several cloisters, entire streets, a chapel, a café, and an art gallery. Don’t miss the life-size model of the Last Supper, depicting Judas Iscariot with decidedly different skin pigmentation from his master and the other disciples. While one might assume his reddish hue is brought on by shame for his deeds, I was told it is meant to imply that Judas was of Moorish ancestry which supposedly played a part in his betrayal. It’s Jesus Christ Superstar all over again.
…and All the Rest
Having covered what I feel are the essentials, there are few more things I should mention which bolster my claim that Peru is the quintessential Latin American country to visit.
When in Latin America, venturing into the jungles and rain-forests, and specifically the Amazon when in South America, is an absolute must. Although many think primarily of Brazil when it comes to the Amazon, this largest tropical jungle on the planet, it is also accessible from several or all of the neighbouring countries — including Peru. I actually entered the Amazon via Leticia in Colombia and its conjoined twin Tabatinga across the border in Brazil; both towns are just across the Amazon River from Santa Rosa de Yavarí in Peru. From the Peruvian side, Iquitos is the gateway to the Amazon. So Peru’s got you covered there.
I enjoy a cheeky monkey or funny cat video as much as the next guy but I am not huge on wildlife. If you are, however, you’re in luck; Peru has wildlife in spades. Being among the world’s seventeen so-called “megadiverse” countries, she is home to more than 500 species of mammal, over 1800 species of birds, 300 species of reptiles, and 380 species of amphibians.
I am also not much of a museum guy but Lima has several well-regarded museums and the erotic, nay, full-on pornographic, pottery of Museo Rafael Larco Herrera is worth checking out. Necrophilia, bestiality, and all sorts of deviant appetites apparently existed way before the internet.
While I did not have the opportunity to visit them, the Nazca Lines in the Nazca Desert are a fascinating enigma. These enormous geoglyphs have confounded scientists ever since they were discovered in the 1940s and remain unexplained. They are on the list for my next visit.
Then there is the North Pacific coast with its beaches and surfing, the sands and oases of the Sechura Desert, the coffee farm tours, and extreme sports, anything from rafting to paragliding. Finally, Peruvian Spanish is generally spoken clearly, with the tempo kept reasonable and the syllables well enunciated, making the language easier to learn there than for example in Argentina and Chile (I don’t care what anybody says, they don’t speak Spanish in Chile).
As noted at the outset, Peru does not have it all when it comes to Latin America and those wanting all of everything will have to explore further afield. And I encourage anyone even vaguely interested in the region to do so. Nevertheless, Peru is, when all is told, the country that musters the most complete and rounded out Latin American experience.
So, if you visit only one country in all of Latin America in your life, go forth and visit Peru.
